Red-Centre - MacDonnells

Newhaven and the Red-Centre

September/October 2004

Part two- Western MacDonnell Ranges

Tom & Marie Tarrant

The second part of the Red-Centre trip after Newhaven was a brief excursion from Alice Springs to Glen Helen Lodge in the West MacDonnell Range where we stayed for two nights. The lodge is situated at the end of the sealed road, about 135 kms from Alice Springs.

On arrival in Alice Springs we stayed at the Desert Rose Motel for a night. Birding around the town-centre was fairly mundane with Western Ringneck and Black Kites and contrary to the field-guides Spotted Dove seemed to have colonized. Apparently Western Bowerbird can be found near the entrance to the Botanic Gardens.

map

Alice Springs Settling-Ponds

One of the best sewage-works that I've visited in Australia, there is even a birders-hide, where Black-tailed Native-hen could be observed.

Many wildfowl present, (such as Grey Teal and Hoary-headed Grebe) plus migrant-waders (Common and Marsh Sandpiper, and Red-necked Avocets) Terns (Whiskered, Gull-billed & Caspian) and raptors like Black and Whistling Kite. In the surrounding swampy areas, Little Grassbird and White-winged Wren were seen.


Alice Springs Settling-Ponds	Alice Springs Settling-Ponds


Avocets & Stilts on the Settling-Ponds	Grebes on the Settling-Ponds

We picked up a rental-car at ten on friday morning and drove out to the West MacDonnells on Larapinta Drive, our first stop was Simpson's Gap (SG on the map) We arrived around lunch-time and walked towards the Gap where Marie saw a Black-footed Rock-Wallaby (just above the sign!)

Whilst in the Gap we heard a Peregrine Falcon overhead and had excellent views while it was harassed by a Little Woodswallow. A Wedge-tailed Eagle also made a brief appearance.


Entrance to Simpson's Gap	View of Simpson's Gap


Black-footed Rock-Wallaby	Road into Simpson's Gap

From Simpson's Gap we went on to Standley Chasm (SC), it was getting quite warm by now but fortunately there was a nice cafe where you could purchase refreshments. Grey-headed and White-plumed Honeyeater were common here and we noticed some harassing a small monitor (Varanus tristris) up a tree. Another interesting feature in the chasm were cycads, remnants of a previous age.


Area near Standley Chasm	View before Standley Chasm

View in Standley Chasm	View out of Standley Chasm

Now it was getting hot and so we decided to make our way up to Glen Helen Lodge where we had booked accomodation. We checked in then made our way from the resort to the gorge, and had a refreshing swim in the water-hole (which is the start of the Finke River)

There were many birds in this area, Australian Reed-warbler, Variegated Fairywren in the reeds and Rufous Songlark called from the trees. A Common Sandpiper flew upriver and Fairy Martins nested on the rock-face of the gorge.


View of Glen Helen Gorge	Water-hole at Glen Helen Gorge

Later that afternoon we sat in the beer-garden and scanned the cliffs for wildlife, another Peregrine flew along calling loudly, a group of Rufous Night-Herons appeared and I spotted a Black-footed Rock-Wallaby high on the cliff-face.


View from Beer-Garden at Glen Helen Resort	Black-footed Rock-Wallaby

On our last full-day in the area, we decided to get-up early and visit the nearby Ormiston Gorge. Still hoping to see Dusky Grasswren we stopped near the Ranger's Residence where the species had been 'staked-out' in the past. Unfortunately there was no sign of grasswren but we picked up a few new species for the trip Sacred Kingfisher, Peaceful Dove and my first Western Bowerbird.


Early morning views	near Ormiston Gorge


Western Ringnecks	Fairy Martin

Whilst in the car-park we caught up with a participant of the Newhaven expedition Paul Triggs, and he talked us into doing the 'mighty' Pound Walk, a trail of 7.5 kms around Ormiston Pound, an area seemingly 'walled-in' by two perpendicular escarpments.


Pound Walk	View towards Ormiston Gorge


Looking back on Pound Walk	Looking into Ormiston Gorge

The trail was hot-work, but we saw a few birds and reptiles, including Painted Firetail, Budgerigar, Tree & Fairy Martins, Rainbow Bee-eaters and the ubiquitous Grey-headed Honeyeaters.


Tall mulla mulla	Grey-headed Honeyeater


Grasshopper	Diporiphora lalliae?

After finishing the trail, we headed back to Glen Helen Gorge and a nice swim in the water-hole, so ended our Red-Centre adventure.

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