Thailand Trip-Report

part one

 

Thai Flag

See map of Southern Thailand showing areas visited

 

In early 2001 we received an email from Singapore inviting us to attend an informal birding-trip to Thailand primarily to search for the 'Big G' or Gurney's Pitta, a lowland species of a bird currently thought to number fewer than 30 in the wild. Our friends Lim Kim Seng and his brother Kim Chuah were organizing a trip to the Krabi area of southern Thailand to look for the pitta and then planning to spend some time further north at Kaeng Krachan National Park accompanied by birding friends from Singapore and Malaysia. We were also accompanied by Peter Ericsson, a Swedish birder fluent in the thai language.

We left Brisbane on the morning of Saturday 28 April and after a couple of hours stop-over in Brunei (in which I gained a Borneo list of one species....House Swift!) we arrived in Bangkok Airport and met Peter and travelled on to Phuket where we hired a car and drove to an area south of Krabi (here we were forced to employ the assistance of locals as we got lost searching for Khao Nor Chuchi.....this is where Peter's skill in the Thai language was first put to the test!)

Arriving at the Morakot Resort at 2 am we were surprised to be met by Kim Chuah and after travelling for over 24 hours the prospect of sleep in the bungalow was very welcome. However after only three hours in bed reveille was called and the search for the Big G commenced!

The remaining (known) habitat for the pitta is a rather small patch of forest about one kilometre from the Morakot Resort, sadly it is rather depleted and far worse than I had anticipated after reading the available literature. We spent the morning searching the area to the west of the road and unsurprisingly saw little evidence of the pitta. One excellent sighting though was a male white-phase Asian Paradise-Flycatcher which although noisily exclaiming his presence was incredibly difficult to photograph. Purple-throated Sunbird was spotted in the secondary forest though I failed to see the Large Wren-Babbler which most of the rest of the group had observed. Black and Yellow Broadbill and Dark-throated Oriole were seen well on the eastern side of the track

 

Gurney's Pitta

Gurney's Pitta

by Phil Round

 

Khao Nor Chuchi

Morakot Resort

Khao Nor Chuchi

Morakot Resort

Dark-throated Oriole

The Team

Dark-throated Oriole

The Team

Black and Yellow Broadbill

Black and Red Broadbill

Black and Yellow Broadbill 

Image by Laurence Poh

Black and Red Broadbill  

Image by Tee Lian Huat

 

Asian Paradise-Flycatcher

Asian Paradise-Flycatcher

Image by Suppalak Klabdee

 

Marie and I continued birding until lunch-time and returning to the Morakot saw our first Spectacled Bulbuls (rather unremarkable birds but not seen by the rest of the team.) The afternoon saw a storm and so birding was confined to the immediate area of the resort where Blue-winged Pitta, Black and Red Broadbill, Blue-eared Kingfisher and Brown Shrike were recorded. The rain continued into the evening and we couldn't help noticing that frogs and toads were giving a show, a few species were photographed.

 

 

Painted Frog

Treefrog

Painted Frog

Treefrog

Pond Frog

Flying Lizard

Pond Frog

Spot the Flying Lizard!

 

The following day began with a rainbow behind the Morakot and as one of the team Kim Keang declared, that there will be "a pot of gold at one end and a Gurney's Pitta at the other!" This was to be prophetic as a Mr Yothin, the local bird-guide had been contracted to show us the specialities of the area including the most famous. In the morning we were taken to a spot and split into two groups Unfortunately I cannot divulge too much detail of the site (for obvious reasons), but we were amazed when a handsome male Gurney's Pitta hopped past about 20 metres from where we were watching. Later the second group were rewarded for their patience with an excellent view. Fortunately Prof. Ng Soon Chye managed to capture the male on video and has made a 'screensaver' which can be downloaded from his website Asiabird

'Our' Gurney's Pitta

'Our' Gurney's Pitta!

Image from video by Ng Soon Chye

After lunch Yothin took us to the area behind the 'Crystal Waters' natural swimming-holes, the vegetation here seems rather more pristine and we were fortunate to see Scarlet-rumped Trogon, Rufous-tailed Tailorbird, Short-tailed Babbler and I 'dipped' on Fulvous-chested Flycatcher near the nest of a Wallace's Hawk-Eagle. In the forest we heard the incredibly strident call of an Indian Cuckoo and whilst searching for it I missed another male Gurney's Pitta which a couple of the group saw well.

On dusk further along trail 'C' Yothin heard both Hooded and Banded Pitta calling and we got very close to the Banded (arguably the most beautiful pitta) without seeing the bird.

So ended an excellent day, (although I was soaking wet and tired!) we met several other birders that day who had spent days searching for the Big G without success and contemplated using the service of a guide, one from the UK Billy, had been trying for seven days.......we hope he was eventually successful. Since then there has been some comment on chatlines about the use of local-guides to search for the bird but I believe without fellow birders like Yothin, Utthai Treesucon and the two lady owners of the Morakot Resort the future for the pitta would be very bleak indeed.

 

 

Marie at Crystal Waters

Gurneys Pitta habitat

Marie at Crystal Waters

Gurney's Pitta habitat

 

Tuesday began with some last minute birding around Khao Nor Chuchi although few new birds were added to the list. We set off for Krabi through some very heavy rain and found accomodation at the Vieng Thong Hotel opposite the floating restaurant. The hotel room was comfortable and had aircon, quite a pleasant change after the humidity of Khao Nor Chuchi. Peter organized a boat for our excursion into the mangroves the following morning with a cheery boatman named Mas (we had heard that the legendary Mr Dai was very expensive.) In the evening we ate an excellent meal on the floating restaurant and were amazed when a Great Eared Nightjar flew out of the mangroves opposite and over our heads towards town. We awoke the next morning to heavy rain and the prospects for our mangrove birding looked grim. Mr Dai found us and tried to talk us into using his services with the prospect of exciting birds but admitted the weather wasn't looking very promising. Eventually Peter explained to him that he had already made a deal with Mas and we would have to stick with him. We boarded the covered boat and headed towards the passage between the two odd-looking islands to the north.

 

KC and Boatman

Krabi Islands

KC and Mas the boatman

Krabi Islands

Expeditionary Team!

Island

Expeditionary team!

Left island from north

 

Shortly after setting off the weather improved and it wasn't long before we saw our first Brown-winged Kingfisher - a striking bird with a restrictive range. The mood of the group picked up and someone heard a bird singing in the vegetation under the cliff of the western island, Mas expertly guided the boat close enough for us to get excellent views of a Mangrove Blue Flycatcher (a 'lifer' for most on the boat) Overhead a pair of Striated Swallows were seen and nearby a Mangrove Pitta called. We continued upstream until we reached habitation then turned the boat around, this was probably the most exciting moment of the boat-ride as a Ruddy Kingfisher flew over the boat calling and alighted in a nearby tree, sadly though it was in a difficult position for photography. Also seen from the boat were Common and Greater Flameback, Collared Kingfisher, Brahminy Kite and Striated Heron. We all agreed it was an excellent two-hour trip and great value for 800 baht between 9 of us.

 

Mangrove Blue Flycatcher

Brown-winged Kingfisher

Mangrove Blue Flycatcher

Image by Peter Ericsson

Brown-winged Kingfisher  

Image by Ooi Beng Yean

 

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Checklist of bird species seen ( in Html format)

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